Push Fight Review

Push Fight In Progress

Game Overview

Push Fight is a two-player abstract strategy game where the board rapidly changes.

Object of the Game

Players fight to push one of their opponent’s pieces of the board, utilizing only two moves and a push each turn.

The Pieces

In Push Fight there are 3 pieces: Circles, Squares, and the Anchor.

Each player controls 3 Squares, 2 Circles, and the Anchor alternates between the two players.

Squares can push.

Square

Circles cannot push.

Circle

The Anchor prevents the last square that pushed from being pushed.

Anchor

Setup

The light pieces setup first on one side of the center dividing line. Then the dark pieces setup on the other side. The anchor does not start in play. The light pieces take the first turn.

For your first game, I recommend the standard setup below:

StandardSetup

For future games, there are no restrictions on how you setup your pieces on your side of the line. You do not need to put a piece in all 4 spaces adjacent to the line. You are also allowed to place pieces on the edge of your side of the line.

Playing the Game

Each turn consists of two optional moves and one mandatory push. You do not need to use both moves, but your moves can only be made before your push.

Move

When you move one of your pieces, you may move through any number of unoccupied spaces in a single move. You may not move diagonally.

For example, this would be a legal move:

PushFightMove

Push

After you have finished making your moves, you must Push with one of your Squares. How pushing works:

  • You must Push your chosen Square in the direction of at least one adjacent piece (that piece can be an opponent’s piece or your own)
  • If you Push into a row of adjacent pieces, you push that entire row

GenericPush

  • After you push, take the Anchor and place it on the Square that Pushed

AnchorPlacement

  • You may not make a Push that would move the Square with the Anchor
  • You may not make a Push that would move a piece into the top or bottom wall

CannotPush

  • The first player to Push one of their opponent’s pieces off either edge immediately wins the game

Conclusions

This is one of my favorite games. The rules are very simple, but, due to the move and push mechanics, the state of the game changes rapidly every turn. I almost certainly have played over a 100 games of this. When you first start playing, the games are pretty quick because it is easy to fall into a trap. As you play more, the games get longer and the turns get a lot more interesting. Once you know what you are doing (I say it takes a minimum of 5 games before it starts to click), the staggering possibilities start revealing themselves. I do not want to go into too much detail, since I think that the discovery is part of what makes this game great.

Before you buy this game, I would recommend trying it out online here. If you want to buy it, Penny Arcade is the current distributor. As a heads up, the price did jump up by around $15-20 when Penny Arcade became the distributor, so I would recommend waiting for a sale. It is currently marked as limited edition.

Epic Card Game Combat

Epic Box

Foreword

Epic implements combat in a TCG/CCG-like game better than all of the other games of that genre I have played. Attacking is a fluid part of your turn because both you and your opponent have a lot of decisions to make.

You must decide:

  • When to attack on your turn (if at all)
  • How many champions to attack with at once
  • When to “chump block” to prevent damage
  • When to play “combat tricks” that enhance your champions
  • Which of a plethora of other possibilities you need to consider

In this article, I will discuss first the generically correct answers to these questions. At the end of each discussion, I will link to an article that goes into more detail about that specific aspect of Epic combat.

Combat Overview

I have included my Epic Turn chart below to provide context for how attacking/combat works in Epic.

In Summary, Passing initiative during combat works like this:

  • Both players get a chance to play fast actions
  • Then, instead of playing fast actions and passing back to their opponent, a player may end the passing initiative cycle
  • The attacking player goes first after declaring attackers
  • The defending player goes first after declaring blockers
  • Explained in further detail later in the article

 

On April 6, 2017, WWG announced a couple of rules updates during the “Attack” phase and “Try to End Your Turn” phase. The currently accurate diagram and examples are above, click below to see the changes and old diagram.

When You may Attack Overview

After you perform all of the Start of Turn actions, you can initiate an Attack Phase at any point on your turn. You can attack, then play a champion, then attack again, then attempt to end your turn, then, since your opponent played a card, you can attack again, etc. As long as you have prepared champions that aren’t deploying (similar to “summoning sickness” for Magic player or non-charge minions for Hearthstone players), you can initiate an Attack Phase on your turn.

When Each Player may Play Cards in Combat Overview

(updated with April 2017 changes)

During an Attack Phase, there are 2 windows where both players may play Fast Actions: After attackers are declared and After blockers are declared.

An Attack Phase starts when the current player declares 1 or more champions as attackers. Then this attacking player may play any Fast Actions (events, champions with ambush, or activating a card’s power like expend on a champion in play or recall on an event in your discard pile). After the attacking player performs any number of these actions that they would like, the defending player gets that same chance. So, the defending player can play events, champions with ambush, or activate cards’ powers.

If the defending player doesn’t want to play any Fast actions, they can instead move directly to the next step (declare blockers). However, if they play one or more Fast actions, the attacking player gets another chance to play as many Fast actions as they would like. From here, players may take any number of Fast actions and then pass back to the other player, until, one player decides to move onto the next step (declare blockers) instead of playing 1 or more fast actions.

Once both players have passed, the defender assigns 0 or more champions to block the entire group of attacking champions. If at least 1 champion is assigned as a blocker, than none of the champions will deal damage to the defending player. (This is complicated by airborne, unblockable, and breakthrough.)

Once blockers are declared, repeat the same process that occurred after attackers were declared, except, the defending player gets the first chance to play Fast actions: defending player may play Fast Actions, attacking player may play Fast Actions or move onto the next step, etc.

Once both players have had a chance to play Fast Actions and then one player passes instead of playing a Fast Action, damage is assigned. The controller of the champions assign the damage. So, the attacking player would determine how much of the attacking champions’ offense is dealt to each defending champion, and the defending player would determine how much of the defending champions’ offense is dealt to each attacking champion.

When to Attack

You (almost) always want to attack with your champions before spending your gold.

At the start of the turn, you know all of the champions you have in play, and all of the champions your opponent has in play. If you see an attack you can make that is advantageous to you currently, make it. Your opponent will either have to play something to stop you or take the damage.

Examples:

Example 1 (Lone Attacker)

The most simple example is if you have a champion in play and they do not. If you have a Medusa in play and they have nothing in play, attacking guarantees that you will either do 6 damage to them, or they will need to do something to prevent it.

SoloMedusa

They could either remove Medusa by breaking/banishing/bouncing (returning it to hand) it or ambush a champion in to block it. Once they have committed to something, you can then potentially have an answer for it.

Scenario 1 (Opponent Ambushes in a Champion)

 

Scenario 2 (Opponent Uses Removal)

 

Example 2 (Multiple Attackers)

Attacking before spending your gold is even more important when you have more champions in play than your opponent. The greater your advantage on board, the better it is for your opponent to play a board clear. If you attack with your small champions first, you are almost guaranteed to do at least some damage to your opponent.

Say you have 2 demon tokens, Infernal Gatekeeper, and Triceratops in play. Your opponent has Sea Titan in play.

WhenToAttack

If you attack before spending your gold, your opponent can only block 1 of the champions, or they can board clear early.

Scenario 1 (Opponent Board Clears Early)

 

Scenario 2 (Opponent Holds onto Gold)

 

Relevant Supplementary Articles

When to Spend Your Gold Before Attacking (Coming Soon)

How Many to Attack with Simultaneously

You (almost) always want to attack with 1 champion at a time.

There a few major disadvantages when attacking as a group:

  • If any attacker doesn’t have airborne or unblockable, the entire group is treated as if they don’t have it
  • If even 1 champion blocks the group, all of the champions in the group are blocked
  • Cards like Spike Trap affect all attacking champions

If you attack with 1 champion at a time, you are more likely to deal damage to your opponent.

Examples:

Example 1 (Chump Block)

You have Thundarus, Knight of Shadows, Kong, and 3 human tokens in play. Your opponent has a Thrasher Demon in play with 2 +1/+1 counters on it.

SimultaneousAttack

Scenario 1 (Attack with Everything at Once)

 

Scenario 2 (Attack One at a Time)

 

Example 2 (Pack Attack)

You have 5 wolf tokens in play. Your opponent has Triceratops in play. You can either attack as a group for 10 damage, which would break Triceratops (and all of your wolves), or you can attack one at a time.

PackAttack

Scenario 1 (Attack with Everything at Once)

 

Scenario 2 (Attack One at a Time)

 

Relevant Supplementary Articles

When to Attack in Groups (Coming Soon)

When to Chump Block

“Chump Blocking” is when you block an attacking champion with a smaller one. The attacking champion won’t break, the defending champion will break, but you won’t take any damage.

You (almost) never want to chump block with a 1-cost champion. If you can’t break an attacking 1-cost champion and you have a token, you (almost) always want to chump block.

If you chump block with a 1-cost champion, you can fall behind in champions on the board. If you chump block with tokens, you protect your health and don’t lose much.

Examples:

Example 1 (Emergency Chump Block)

You just spent your gold playing Inheritance of the Meek on your opponent’s turn, clearing the board. They then spend their gold on Rampaging Wurm and attack for 14. You play Plentiful Dead to get a zombie token.

EmergencyChump

Since your opponent doesn’t play anything before blockers are declared, you declare it as (chump) blocker. Neither player plays anything so your zombie breaks to Rampaging Wurm‘s 14 damage, Rampaging Wurm gets tickled by the zombie, and you take no damage.

Example 2 (Airborne Lethal)

You have Ice Drake in play, Inner Peace in hand, spent your gold, and are at 16 health. Your opponent has no champions in play, 4 cards in hand, 3 health, and spent their gold. They play Draka, Dragon Tryant, revealing Flame Strike and Flash Fire for loyalty 2->blitz, and attack with it.

AirborneLethal

You could either chump block with Ice Drake, causing only Ice Drake to break, or not chump block.

Scenario 1 (1-cost Chump Block)

 

Scenario 2 (Don’t Chump Block)

 

Relevant Supplementary Articles

When to Chump Block with 1-cost Champions (Coming Soon)

When not to Chump Block with tokens (Coming Soon)

When to Play Combat Tricks

A combat trick is generally a buff (like Rage and Brave Squire), but the term can be broadened out into any Fast effect that can be used to modify combat (fast removal for instance).

You (almost) always want to play your Combat Tricks after blockers have been declared. The obvious exception to this is playing an ambush champion that you want to declare as a blocker before blockers are declared.

As the attacker you want to wait because how your opponent blocks can determine which combat tricks you want to play, if any. In addition, if you play a buff on an unblocked attacker after blockers are declared, the defender cannot change their mind and block the now buffed attacker.

As the defender you want to wait because your opponent might buff their attacker, and then you can use 1 card to answer 2 or more cards, the champion and the buff(s).

Examples:

Example 1 (Token Buff)

My favorite example is when you have Mighty Blow in hand, you have at least a token and 1 more champion in play, and your opponent has at least a token in play.

BuffOrder

You could either play your Mighty Blow before or after attackers.

Scenario 1 (Play Mighty Blow Before Blockers are Declared)

 

Scenario 2 (Play Mighty Blow after blockers are declared)

 

Example 2 (Lying in Wait)

You are at 22 health. Your opponent attacks you with Raging T-Rex. You have no champions in play so you declare no blockers. After blockers are declared, your opponent plays 2 Brave Squires on Raging T-Rex. Now, you play Lying in Wait and remove 3 cards for the price of 1.

Relevant Supplementary Articles

When to Play Combat Tricks Before the Declare Blockers Step (Coming Soon)

When to Play Burn Removal in Conjunction with Combat Damage (Coming Soon)

Additional Articles

Included above are the main considerations for Epic combat. Below you can find articles that cover in smaller and/or rarer situations. Articles denoted as Coming Soon have not yet been written. So, if a particular one catches you eye, let me know in the comments, and I will prioritize it.

Bluffing (Coming Soon)

Breakthrough (Coming Soon)

Chump Attacking (Coming Soon)

Interesting Combat Cards

Epic Recycle Interactions

Epic Box

Foreword

I saw a question on the Epic Card Game Facebook page about how recycle works, and it motivated me to go into detail about it, mainly because I thought of some cool interactions with it.

Recycle Definition

Taken straight from WWG:

5.5.1 Recycle means: “You may put two cards from your discard pile on the bottom of your deck in any order. If you do, draw a card.”

In the 1st print rule book, recycle said you “banished” 2 cards, but it was updated for ease of play.

FAQ

I will add any other recycle questions received to this list.

  • For cards like Blind Faith, can you choose itself as a card to recycle?

blind_faith

 

  • What happens if I have less than 2 cards in my discard pile, and I play a card with recycle?

 

  • Can I put just 1 card from my discard pile on the bottom of my deck with recycle? For example, it’s my turn and my opponent has an expended Necromancer Lord in play. I want to put the Kong in my discard pile on the bottom of my deck to prevent them from taking it later.

 

  • Can I recycle an unbanishable and/or an untargetable card in my discard pile, like Thundarus?

thundarus

 

  • Will “when this card leaves your discard pile” triggers, like Ancient Chant, work when I put that card on the bottom of my deck with recycle?

ancient_chant

Interesting Interactions

Warrior Golem

warrior_golem

Warrior Golem can recycle itself to its own recycle trigger. This is because Warrior Golem‘s trigger resolves when it “goes into your discard pile from anywhere” (instead of while Warrior Golem is resolving in the Supplemental Zone). Due to this, it will be a legal target in your discard pile while the recycle trigger resolves.

Warrior Golem‘s recycle trigger will also occur if you have to discard it. This can either be because your opponent played a Thought Plucker etc. or if you have more than 7 cards in your hand at the end of your turn.

**Edit: After checking with WWG, if anything triggers during the end phase, you start the end phase again. So, you would discard, recycle, draw to 8, and then discard again.**

If you are the owner of the card, you would get the recycle effect if it was under your opponent’s control when it breaks, since it goes to your discard pile.

Keeper of Secrets

keeper_of_secrets

Keeper of Secrets is interesting because it puts Recycle onto an Ally trigger. This means the recycle happens, after the 1-cost card that triggered it finishes resolving.

So, if you play an Ancient Chant with this in play:

  1. You would put the recycle trigger into a batch to occur after Ancient Chant resolves
  2. Draw 2 cards
  3. Put Ancient Chant into your discard pile since it is done resolving
  4. Resolve Recycle trigger
  5. Since Ancient Chant is already in your discard pile, you choose Ancient Chant and 1 other card to put on the bottom of your deck
  6. Ancient Chant‘s “when this card leaves your discard pile” trigger gets put into another new batch to resolve after the recycle trigger finishes resolving
  7. Draw a card from recycle
  8. Draw a card from Ancient Chant trigger

If you play Stand Alone with a Keeper of Secrets in play, as long as you don’t choose the Keeper of Secrets (causing it to break), your 2 chosen cards could actually be both the Stand Alone and the Keeper of Secrets that triggered the recycle.

Reaper, Final Task, Ogre Mercenary

reaper
final_task
ogre_mercenary

 

 

With this combo, you can recycle 2 of the cards that triggered the recycle to themselves.

Reaper is in play, then play Final Task and target an Ogre Mercenary in your discard pile

  1. You would put the Reaper Ally trigger into a batch to occur after Final Task resolves
  2. Final Task puts Ogre Mercenary (or any other Tribute->Recycle) champion into play
  3. Ogre Mercenary‘s recycle trigger gets added to the batch to occur after Final Task resolves
  4. Ogre Mercenary gains blitz etc.
  5. Final Task finishes resolving and goes to the discard pile
  6. Resolve the Reaper and Ogre Mercenary triggers in any order
  7. Use Reaper trigger first to break Ogre Mercenary (put a demon into play)
  8. Resolve Ogre Mercenary‘s recycle trigger
  9. Since Final Task and Ogre Mercenary are already in your discard pile, they may be chosen as the 2 cards to put on the bottom of your deck
  10. Draw a card from recycle

All Of The Things

fire_shaman
drinker_of_blood
warrior_golem
the_gudgeon
priest_of_kalnor
ancient_chant
surprise_attack
priestess_of_angeline
flash_fire

Scenario

It’s your turn and both you and your opponent still have a gold.

You

Your Opponent

Quiz: Assuming you play Surprise Attack and draw a Priestess of Angeline and later a Flash Fire, who wins?

Ninjato Review

Ninjato Box

Foreword

Ninjato is a highly interlocking worker placement game. In it, you are a ninja trying to hone your skills, influence/subvert the three major clans, and spread rumors of your prowess.

Worker Placement

How to Play

Overview

Ninjato In Progress

This is a heavily interlocking game that can be a bit tricky to wrap your head around. There are 8 primary aspects of the game Dojo Cards, Sensei Tiles, Clans, Clan Houses, Guards (Elites), Treasure, Rumor Cards, and Envoy Cards. While the game may look visually overwhelming when set up, everything flows into one another and is fairly intuitive once you know what you are doing.

  • Dojo Cards are used to get Sensei Tiles
  • Dojo Cards and Sensei Tiles are used to attack Clan Houses
  • When you attack a Clan House, you must defeat Guards and potentially Elite Guards
    • By defeating Guards, you get Treasure
    • By defeating an entire Clan House, you change which Clan controls it
  • Treasure is used to buy Rumor Cards and Envoy Cards
  • Each Rumor card references either your Sensei Tiles, your Elite Guards, your Envoy Cards, or other Rumors
  • Envoy Cards reference Clan Houses

Ninjato Flow

On each of the 7 turns of the game, each player has 3 Shurikens (Throwing Stars) to use as their workers/actions. At the end of rounds 3, 5, and 7, there are scoring rounds.

Dojo Cards

Ninjato Dojo Cards

Dojo Cards are discarded from your hand to acquire Sensei Tiles and to attack Clan Houses. Since you discard them when you use them, you need to keep spending Shurikens (actions) to gain more.

Treasure

Ninjato Treasure

Treasure is gained by attacking Clan Houses. It is used to buy Rumor Cards and Envoy Cards. When you spend Treasure, you gain victory/Honor points.

Attacking Clan Houses

Ninjato Clan Houses

Attacking Clan Houses is the central part of the game. In order to defeat the Clan House’s Guards, you must use your Dojo Cards and/or Sensei Tiles.

When you defeat a Guard, you temporarily gain a Treasure. At this point, you can either retreat with your Treasure(s), or you can attempt to fight another Guard to gain another Treasure. You may keep attacking until you take all of that Clan House’s Treasure, or you are defeated. If you are defeated, you only keep 1 of the Treasures from the attack.

If you take all of the Clan House’s Treasure, you defeat the Clan House and must change which Clan controls it. So, you can remove a Clan you have no influence over, and supplant it with one already under your thumb.

Sensei Tiles

Ninjato Sensei Tiles

Sensei Tiles represent the Snake, Tiger, and Crane styles. They are used to aid in attacks on Clan Houses. Later in the game, there are also Sensei Tiles that can enhance your influence over the Clans.

Envoy Cards

Ninjato Envoys

Envoy Cards represent your influence over the three Clans. The more Envoys you control of a Clan, the more influence you have over that Clan. Envoy Cards are acquired by spending your Treasure. They score at the end of rounds 3, 5, and 7.

Rumor Cards

Ninjato Rumors

Rumor Cards are how you spread tales of your Prowess. If you defeat an abundance of Elite Guards and spread plentiful Rumors about it, you can gain significant honor. To acquire/spread Rumors, you must spend Treasure on them.

Setup

Ninjato Setup

  • Shuffle the Dojo Cards and deal 4 to each player, place the remaining Dojo Cards at the bottom left and turn 3 face up
  • Shuffle the Rumor cards and place them on the left of the board, turn 4 face up
  • Shuffle the Envoy cards and place them on the right of the board, turn 4 face up
  • Set aside the 3 Hensojutsu (Disguise) Sensei Tiles. Then shuffle the rest of the Sensei Tiles together, place them at the bottom right, and turn a number face up equal to the number of players
  • Each player takes all of the Shurikens of a color
  • Randomly deal a Sentry (regular Guard) onto each Clan House, ignore any alarm makers
  • Randomly add 3 Treasures to each Clan House
  • Place the Taira (red) 2 on a Clan House, do the same with the Taira (red) 4, Minamoto (blue) 2, Minamoto (blue) 4, and Go-Shirakawa (green) 6
  • Place 2 of each players’ disks near the score tracker
  • Randomly determine the original turn order with the remaining disks and place them on the center turn tracker

The Turn

The starting player places their first Shuriken on any of the locations below and immediately performs the associated action:

  • the Dojo (draw Dojo Cards and determine turn order)
  • the Sensei (acquire a Sensei tile)
  • any of the Clan Houses with Treasure remaining, place it to the left for Strength, to the right for Stealth (attack it to gain its treasure, change its Clan allegiance, and/or fight Elite Guards)
  • the Pavilion (acquire a Secret Card)
  • the Palace (acquire an Envoy Card)

When that player finishes, the next player, depicted by the turn order track, places a Shuriken and performs the associated action. Continue this until everyone has placed a Shuriken and performed the associated action. Then, repeat this from the first player until all players have used all 3 of their Shurikens.

Ninjato End Turn

End of Turn

At the end of each of the first 6 turns, the board needs to be replenished. New Sensei Tiles need to be put out, the face up Rumor Cards and Envoy Cards need to be replenished, and the defeated Clan Houses need a new Sentry and Treasures.

End of Rounds 3, 5, and 7 Scoring

At these points, players score points and/or gain Rumors base on their influence over the 3 clans, determined by their acquired Envoys.

End Game Scoring

  1. Score each players’ Rumor Cards as explained in the Rumor Cards section above
  2. Each unused Treasure is worth 1 point for its owner, regardless of type
  3. Each Elite Guard defeated by a player earns that player 1 or 2 points, as depicted at the top of the Elite Guard Card

The winner is the player with the most points. According to the rules, all players must bow to the winner.

Conclusion

I am reluctant to recommend this game to new gamers because it seems a bit complex; however, this is one of my family’s favorite games. We play a lot of games, but I am the only hardcore “gamer” among us.

The components in Ninjato are fairly high quality, the theme is excellent, there is enough randomness to equalize the playing field, and there are a lot of options without being overwhelming (once you know what you are doing). That final point, not an overwhelming amount of options, is important to emphasize because it can seem like too much for people new to the game. The main reason it isn’t too bad is because the whole game revolves around attacking Clan Houses.

If you have no Treasure, you need to attack Clan Houses to get it. If you have no Dojo Cards to attack, you need to go to the Dojo to get some. If you have Treasure, you can spend some to get Envoys or Rumors. Sensei Tiles are always nice to have early in the game. That is the basic strategy.

Even though that basic strategy is simple, the replay value of this game is excellent. The order the Sensei Tiles, Treasures, Rumors, etc. come out is random, and that makes a big difference. In one game you could get a bunch of Tiger Sensei Tiles and do a lot of Clan House Attacking to defeat Elites. In another, you might get a Snake Tile that lets you snatch Jades from Clan Houses with just a single Dojo card; you then turn those Jades into Rumors. In another game, you might focus on Envoys, etc. etc. etc.

The most frustrating part of the game can definitely be the core of the game though, attacking Clan Houses. If you get unlucky, you might turn over multiple alarm Guards and be unable to clear the House. Or, you could attack with Strength and then “Banzai” straight into a 5 Guard. If this happens repeatedly, it can really shut you out of the game. However, if you get Sensei Tiles and make sure you have strong Dojo Cards in hand before attacking, you can largely mitigate this negative. I personally rarely call Banzai unless I’m basically guaranteed to beat the next Guard regardless.

Overall, I really enjoy this game. The game looks great, I love the theme (I studied Japanese history a bit), the game is highly variable, and there is enough strategy to keep me coming back. It also helps a lot that my family enjoys it too.

Epic Tyrants Rating Update (Evil)

Epic Box

I have just updated my ratings for Epic cards to include the Tyrants Evil cards. In addition, I have tweaked a few of the base Evil cards’ ratings as well. (The original ratings and explanations are still there, I just added a section for Tyrants updates.) The updated post can be found here. With this last update, the card by card analysis is complete (not including promos/kickstarter cards that are not yet tournament legal). Feel free to let me know if you disagree with any of my ratings.

Constructed Epic: Recursion Abuse

Epic Box

Foreword

This deck was built to abuse Resurrection and Final Task.

First Shot Deck List

Recursion Abuse 1

Evil (9)

Slow (3)
3x The Gudgeon

Fast (3)
3x Final Task

0-Cost (3)
3x Heinous Feast

Good (21)

Slow ()

Fast (14)
3x Divine Judgement
1x Inheritance of the Meek
3x Quell
3x Resurrection
3x Royal Escort
1x Vital Mission

0-Cost (7)
1x Blind Faith
3x Brave Squire
3x Priest of Kalnor

Sage (21)

Slow (5)
3x Knight of Shadows
2x Winter Fairy

Fast (9)
3x Psionic Assault
3x Thought Plucker
3x Wave of Transformation

0-Cost (7)
3x Forcemage Apprentice
1x Shadow Imp
3x Vanishing

Wild (9)

Slow (2)
2x Kong

Fast (4)
2x Mighty Blow
2x Surprise Attack

0-Cost (3)
3x Feeding Frenzy

First Shot Explanation

Resurrection and Final Task are able to bring back all of my powerful champions. Brave Squire and Priest of Kalnor can give a champion I return with Final Task unbreakable. This prevents that champion from breaking at the end of the turn.

This can be disrupted by fast discard removal. Since a player maintains the initiative until they pass it, they can break one of my champions and then play Guilt Demon or Amnesia. Final Task and Resurrection can’t return a banished champion.

To best make use of this effect, I included incredibly powerful tribute champions. Kong is big and deals big damage. The rest (The Gudgeon, Winter Fairy, Thought Plucker, and Knight of Shadows) all either draw multiple cards or force my opponent to discard cards. One of the strongest plays in this deck is to ambush Thought Plucker in on your opponent’s turn after they spent their gold. Then, if they break it on your turn, you can Final Task it and Priest of Kalnor/Brave Squire it and attack. Assuming it does damage, the Thought Plucker has drawn you 3 cards and forced your opponent to discard 3. It also doesn’t break to Final Task because it is unbreakable.

Due to the incredible card draw in this deck, I included Feeding Frenzies (triggered by Forcemage Apprentices) and Vanishings to facilitate powerful tempo plays.

Royal Escort is interesting in that it helps protect my smaller defense champions, but it does also disrupt my own plans. While Royal Escort is in play, I can’t target my champions either. So, if I Final Task a minion, I can’t target it to give it unbreakable. I do really like the idea of Royal Escort and The Gudgeon though. You can’t target me while The Gudgeon is in play, and you can’t target my The Gudgeon while my Royal Escort is in play.

Since I have such strong discard, I included the Psionic Assault to up the ante. Heinous Feasts help me control my opponent’s discard. All of my board clears are banishment based because I want to shut down my opponent’s available resources as much as possible.

Mighty Blows are primarily included as finishers since they work excellently with unblockable champions like Thought Plucker.

Biblios Review

Biblios Box

Foreword

Biblios is an intriguing, partial-information card game that has basically nothing to do with religion.

How to Play

Goal

The goal of the game is to score the most points by collecting a plurality in at least one category.

BibliosScriptorium

Types of Cards

The game consists of Category cards, Gold cards, and Church cards.

Category Cards

Collecting Category cards is how you score points to win the game. The 5 categories are Pigments (blue), Monks (brown), Holy Books (green), Manuscripts (orange), and Forbidden Tomes (red).

The Pigments and Monks categories consist of four 2-value cards, three 3-value cards, and two 4-value cards. So, there is a combined total value of 25 for each of these categories. If you collect at least 13 value in either category, you are guaranteed to win that category.

Biblios 234

The Holy Books, Manuscripts, and Forbidden Tomes categories have seven 1-value cards and two 2-value cards. So there is a combined total value of 11 for each of these categories. If you collect at least 6 value in any of these categories, you are guaranteed to win that category.

Biblios 12

If, at the end of the game, there is a tie for the amount of value in a category, the player with the letter closest to A (in the bottom right hand corner) wins the tie.

Biblious ABCDEFGHI

Gold Cards

Gold cards have a value of either 1, 2, or 3. These cards are used in the auction phase to bid for cards.

Biblios Gold

Church Cards

Church cards can raise or lower the point value for winning specific categories. For example, say you get the +1 Church card and you have collected 12 value in Pigments. You can choose to increase the Pigments die by 1. At the end of the game, if you have the most Pigments value, you take the blue die with the increased point total.

Biblios Church

Immediately when you gain a church card you resolve it. So, if you get the -1 for 2 dice, you must immediately discard the Church card and decrease 2 dice by 1.

Setup

At the start of the game, place the Scriptorium board in the center of the table with each die starting on 3. Then, based on the number of players in the game, remove a number of cards from the deck. Do not look at the removed cards.

For a 4 player game, remove 7 cards randomly.
For a 3 player game, remove 1 of each type of Gold card and then remove 12 additional random cards.
For a 2 player game, remove 2 of each type of Gold card and then remove 21 additional random cards.

Due to the removing of cards, you never know exactly which cards will be in the game. For instance, it is possible that both 4-value Pigments cards will be removed so there would only be a combined value of 14 available.

Biblios Setup

The Turn

The game is divided into 2 phases: the gift phase and the auction phase.

Gift Phase

In the gift phase, each player takes turns drawing cards and distributing them between themselves, everyone else, and a separate pile to be used in the auction phase. Each card is drawn individually and placed in a pile before drawing the next card. You draw a number of cards equal to the number of players plus one.

For example, in a 4 player game, each player draws a total of 5 cards on their turn. The current player takes 1 of those cards, places 3 of those cards into a communal pile, and places 1 in the auction pile.

Example Turn

  • I draw a 1-value Gold card as my first card. I don’t want to keep it, and I don’t want to put it up for auction later. So, I put it in the communal pile.
  • Then, I draw a 4(H) Pigments Category card. I decide to keep it for myself. Now I can’t take another card for myself this turn.
  • For my 3rd draw, I get a 3 Gold card. Since I can’t take it, I decide to put it in the communal pile. There is now 1 spot remaining in the communal pile and 1 spot remaining in the auction pile.
  • For my 4th draw, I draw a Church card that can raise 2 dice by 1 each. I want to potentially get this card later, so I put it into the auction pile.
  • My final draw for the turn is a Manuscripts 1(B) Category card. I must put it into the communal pile.
  • Once all of the cards have been assigned, the remaining players each take one of the cards from the communal pile. This is done in clockwise order.
  • After every card from the communal pile is claimed, the next player takes their turn.

Biblios In Progress

This repeats until the original deck of cards is depleted. At this point, the game moves into the auction phase.

Auction Phase

Once the gift phase is completed, shuffle the created auction deck. Beginning with the starting player, each player takes turns putting a card up for auction. Bidding starts with the player to the left of the current player. To win a bid, you need to have a corresponding amount of gold to cover the cost.

For example, it is my turn to auction a card, and I reveal the Church card that can raise 2 dice by 1. The player to my left (Becky) bids 1 gold. The next player (Carl) bids 2 gold. The final player before me (Diane) passes. I want the card and only have 2 2-value Gold cards, so I bid 4 gold. Becky passes. Carl bids 5 gold. I pass. Carl only has 2 3-value Gold cards, so he must use both of them. He does not receive a refund even though he overpaid by 1.

There is a rule for penalizing a player if they bid more than they have and win the auction. Each other player takes a random card from that player, and then the card is re-auctioned. The penalized player may not participate in that re-auction. This rule does allow people to bluff, especially if they have no Gold cards left. If you are playing with incredibly competitive people who all know what they are doing, then you can use this rule. Otherwise, I would just recommend re-auctioning the card if someone accidentally makes that mistake. Even in this scenario, everyone now knows approximately how much gold that player has to spend, which I see as a penalty.

When a gold card comes up for auction, players bid a number of cards in their hand instead of bidding gold. So, the first person might bid 1 card. The second person might bid 2 cards, etc. If you win the bid, you must discard face-down a number of cards equal to your bid. These could be Gold cards or Category cards. (Church cards will never be in your hand.)

Once the auction pile is depleted, the game is over.

Game End

At the end of the game, each person reveals the total value they have collected for each category. I recommend revealing 1 category at a time for suspense. Whoever has the highest value in that category wins the corresponding die and gains that many points. In case of a tie, the player with the card closest to A wins the die and the points.

Whoever has the most points at the end is the winner. In the case of a tie, the player with the most gold remaining wins. If still tied, the winner is the tied player with the highest value in the Monks category (the leftmost category on the Scriptorium). If still tied, the player with the card closest to A in the Monks category wins. If still tied, because none of the players had Monks cards, repeat this process with the next category on the Scriptorium (Pigments). Continue this process until there is a winner.

Conclusion

At first when I played this game I wasn’t a huge fan. I liked the concept, but it seemed too easy so I didn’t play much more of it. Recently, however, I played some 2 player games, and they were quite interesting. I also lost which really gets me thinking about a game.

In a 2 player game, you see 66% of the cards during the gift phase. In a 4 player game you see 70% of the cards. This is why I call it a partial-information card game, since you don’t have complete knowledge about all of the cards in play, but you do know most of them. Due to this, you can guess what categories the other players are collecting. With this information, you can determine how strongly you want to pursue each category. For example, if you never see anyone take any Pigments and you already have a 4-value and a 3-value, you know there is a pretty good chance you could win that category.

The second aspect of the game that gives you information is the Church cards. If someone boosts a certain category, you know that they almost certainly have a lot of value in that category. So, if you have little to no value in that category, you can just ignore that category going forward. You can also target that category with negative Church cards. In a two-player game this is very interesting because you can feed those Church cards to your opponent to figure out what they are chasing. The actual value changes haven’t been that relevant in my 2 player games because the winner has always been the player to win 3 of the 5 dice regardless.

The gift phase is also interesting because of the whole ‘push your luck’ element. Do you take that early 3-value Pigment card, or do you hold out for something even better. If you take something pretty good early, you know you got something solid. But, when you see a better card come up in a later draw that turn, you have to let it go. In addition, deciding what to put in the auction is just as interesting. Frequently, you just put in a strong card you couldn’t take because you already took a card. Sometimes, though, you get something early like a Church card you want to throw into the auction. Each individual choice on your turn is fairly limited, but the implications and thought behind those choices can be quite interesting.

Overall, I think this is an excellently designed/developed game. I can put a lot of thought into my play, and I really enjoy that aspect. More importantly though, I can still lose the game even when I put the most thought into it. Even in the games I lose, I enjoy the journey and don’t mind the loss. Due to this, I group it with other games like Dominion, Camel Up, and Ninjato.

Epic Tyrants Rating Update (Good)

Epic Box

I have just updated my ratings for Epic cards to include the Tyrants Good cards. In addition, I have actually tweaked a few of the base Good cards’ ratings as well. (The original ratings and explanations are still there, I just added a section for Tyrants updates.) The updated post can be found here. I will be updating Evil soon. In general, the Tyrants cards seem very strong.

Sushi Go! Review

Sushi Go Box

Foreword

Sushi Go! is one of the simplest drafting games.

Drafting

There are 2 major forms of drafting: simultaneous hidden drafting and sequential open drafting. Sushi Go! uses simultaneous hidden drafting.

Simultaneous Hidden Drafting

In this form of drafting, every player starts with an equal number of hidden resources, usually cards. Each player simultaneously picks a resource (keeping it hidden) and then passes the remaining resources to the player on their left (sometimes right). This then continues until there are no resources remaining to pass.

For example, in a 4 player Sushi Go! game each player starts with 8 cards. Everyone picks a card and passes the remaining 7 to the player on their left. Then everyone picks a card from the 7 passed to them, followed by the remaining 6 cards being passed, etc.

Simultaneous hidden drafting is also used in Epic’s cube draft and dark draft formats, Magic: The Gathering’s 8 player draft, Medieval Academy, Seasons, and 7 Wonders.

Sequential Open Drafting (Not used in Sushi Go!)

How to Play

Sushi Go In Progress

Goal

The goal of the game is to score the most points over 3 rounds of drafting.

The Round

Sushi Go! uses Simultaneous Hidden Drafting, described above, for each round.

For a 2 player game, 10 cards are dealt to each player.
For a 3 player game, 9 cards are dealt to each player.
For a 4 player game, 8 cards are dealt to each player.
For a 5 player game, 7 cards are dealt to each player.

Since this is Simultaneous Hidden Drafting, each player simultaneously picks a card from their hand, and then all players reveal their chosen card at the same time. Afterwards, the remaining cards from each players’ hand are passed to the player on their left. The round completes after the last card of hand is picked.

After the 3rd round, the player with the most points wins.

The Cards

Nigiri (Egg, Salmon, and Squid)

Sushi Go Nigiri

Nigri is worth a set number of points at the end of the round. Egg Nigiri is worth 1. Salmon Nigiri is worth 2. Squid Nigiri is worth 3.

Wasabi

Sushi Go Wasabi

Wasabi triples the value of the next Nigiri card you draft. So, say you draft a Wasabi card on turn 1. Then, on turn 3 you draft your first Nigiri card, a Squid Nigiri. That Squid Nigiri goes on top of your Wasabi and those cards together are worth 9 points total. You may not use multiple Wasabi cards on a single Nigiri card, and you may not use a single Wasabi card with multiple Nigiri cards.

Tempura and Sashimi

Sushi Go Sets

Both Tempura and Sashimi require a set of cards to be worth any points. A set of 2 Tempura is worth 5 points. A set of 3 Sashimi is worth 10 points. If you do not have a full set, you score no points from those cards. If you have 2 complete sets, you score full points for both. So, say you have 5 Tempura and 2 Sashimi. You have 2 complete sets of Tempura so you score 10 points from Tempura. You do not have a complete set of Sashimi so you score 0 points from Sashimi.

Dumplings

Sushi Go Dumpling

The more Dumplings you have, the more points you score per Dumpling. If you have 1 Dumpling, your Dumplings are worth 1 point (1 point per Dumpling). If you have 5 or more Dumplings, you Dumplings are worth 15 points (3 points per Dumpling).

Maki Rolls

Sushi Go Maki

Maki Roll cards have 1, 2, or 3 Maki Rolls on them. They are depicted at the top of the card. At the end of the round, the player with the most Maki Rolls scores 6 points. The player with the second most scores 3 points.

If players tie for the most Maki Rolls, the points are split between those tied players. In that situation, no second place points are awarded. If players tie for the 2nd most Maki Rolls, the points are split between those tied players. In both cases, ignore any leftover points after evenly splitting the points.

Puddings

Sushi Go Pudding

Puddings are the only cards that carry over after each round (the rest are discarded). At the end of the 3rd round, the player with the most puddings scores 6 points. The player with the least puddings loses 6 points. Points are evenly split for ties.

Chopsticks

Sushi Go Chopsticks

Chopsticks let you take 2 cards instead of 1 when drafting. If you have a drafted Chopsticks card in front of you, after everyone (including you) has picked their card, you say “Sushi Go!,” and you replace your chopsticks card with another card from that hand.

Conclusion

I’ve said it many times, and I’ll say it again: I love drafting. Sushi Go! is an excellent game for introducing people to drafting. The art is adorable which can attract people, it’s quick, and the drafting strategy isn’t too complex.

In general, the idea of drafting can be bit tricky to get your head around initially. This is because most of the interesting aspects of it are emergent and not directly explained in the rules. When drafting, you want to look at not only what will be the best card for you right now, but based on the other cards in the current and previous hands, what are you likely to get back later in the game. (Since, in a 4 or less player game, you will see each starting hand at least twice).

In addition, once people start taking cards, you can deduce whether you can finish Tempura or Sashimi sets, or if you need to prevent another player from getting all the Dumplings, etc. So, in other words, a large portion of a drafting game’s potential relies on reading your opponents and paying attention to what is happening around you. Although, with this game you can still have fun just working toward your own goals and enjoying the art/theme.

The game I largely want to compare this to is Medieval Academy. (Click here for my review of Medieval Academy.) I think Sushi Go! is a bit simpler, it gives a better feel for drafting with the larger starting hand sizes, and the theme can be a bit more accessible. However, I prefer Medieval Academy. I prefer playing it, and it is the game I use when introducing new players to drafting. Medieval Academy adds on a spatial racing type game-mechanism, and I feel like it can be a bit more engaging. Sushi Go! is strictly drafting. A strictly drafting game is good for teaching the mechanism, but I just don’t feel like there is enough to keep me interested. On the positive side, Sushi Go! is quicker and requires less setup than Medieval Academy.

Overall, if you are looking for a game to teach new players drafting, I would personally recommend Medieval Academy over Sushi Go!. If, however, you want a smaller, quick to play, strictly drafting game, Sushi Go! does work for that purpose. Sushi Go! is a nice game to start or wrap up a gaming session. It’s easy to break out and play since you can carry it in your pocket and you just need a little table space. But, it isn’t a game I would specifically get people together to play.